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Colorado continues to impress.

We woke up against a backdrop of the breathtaking Rockies, inspired to continue our journey through Colorado. First we feasted on a big, delicious brunch in Pagosa Springs (a break from our usual oatmeal and yogurt/granola – although a hearty and tasty way to start the day) then headed West to Durango with the San Juan Mountains looming to our right. Some say the San Juans are the most beautiful mountains in Colorado due to their jagged peaks and cliffs, since the rest of the Rockies are a bit more rounded, albeit still stunning. We’ll let the pictures speak for themselves. We stopped in the town of Durango and took advantage of a nearby organic co-op, where we bought a pound of ground Elk meat (we were in Elk country after all – when in Rome. . .) and a few other goodies for the week. Durango is a cute little town very reminiscent of downtown Frederick – though a bit larger – with abundant dining options; although we stayed away because we were heading to a little bit of paradise. . .

Waking up to the rockies.

Mike and Kittybelle Hosford, fellow Fredericktonians and family friends, generously lent us their handsome mountain home for the greater part of a week. It was downright luxury after 1 month and a half of sleeping on top of our roof. We lived like kings for the next 4 days/nights, cooking meals in a fully-stocked kitchen, watching the US Open on TV, and reading books snuggled on the couch with a gorgeous view of the ski resort right across the street. It was also the first time we completed unloaded the Jeep and gave her a little break, since she’s been so good to us. Also partly for selfish reasons since the Jeep would handle much better off-road over mountain passes with as little weight as possible. In fact, she did.

The Hosford's beautiful mountain home.

Backdrop to Purgatory condominiums.

Durango ski resort across the street.

 In the heart of the San Juan Mountains, we did what most prospectors did in the late 19th century: follow the Million Dollar Highway in search of precious ore (aka gold and silver). So, starting at the Hosfords, at Durango Mountain Resort near Purgatory, we went Jeeping and headed North on 550 towards Silverton, where we past a series of towering “14ers” (mountains above 14,000 feet – there are over 50 of these in Colorado), with aspens just starting to turn yellow and rocky cliff faces glowing a reddish-orange (iron oxide laden rock). Although this road was paved, it wound through the mountains via switchbacks complete with steep drop-offs and no guardrails. However, this was nothing compared to what we would attempt later.

Caro using her phone before losing coverage.

Molas Pass of the San Juan Mountains.

Against Molas Pass, traversed by the Million Dollar Highway.

Jeeps, trucks and bikes all share the Million Dollar Highway.

Iron oxide laden rock.

We arrived at Ouray, another old mining town in a small valley sandwiched between tall peaks, and were determined to take the most direct route to Telluride (origin of the name traces back to the old saying “to hell you ride!”): the off-road, high-clearance 4WD mountain pass called Imogene Pass. Although this pass was a bit more technical, Pat felt confident in the driver’s seat with the Jeep completely empty. So we gave it a try and climbed slowly up the rocky, single-lane switchbacks through rock overhangs and alongside sheer cliffs. Unfortunately we started our journey too late and afternoon rain and thunderstorms rolled in making the ground and rocks very slick – a bit of a hazard as you’re driving up hundreds of feet and have little buffer room.

Ouray squeezed into the valley.

Caught in the rain, we abandoned Imogene Pass.

We decided to turn back and instead follow a more moderate route towards Yankeeboy Basin. Here we were exposed to gorgeous scenery – a pine and aspen wilderness with rushing waterfalls and jagged mountain tops. We also crossed paths with abandoned mine head-frames, remnants of the silver and gold mining heyday. At one time, a nice place to live, I imagine. We made it back to Ouray in one piece, had lunch and did a little window shopping. We also stopped by a Jeep Tour service and inquired about another, maybe tamer, mountain pass to follow on the way to Telluride. There we received good info, well-armed for the next journey. We returned to the Hosfords happy to sleep in the King-sized bed.

A Jeep ad?

The trail down Yankeeboy Basin was slick and steep.

We found our new home - it's a fixer upper. . .

Rough neighborhood.

. . .but what a backyard!

Pat loved the driveway.

While in Durango, we also took advantage of the local attractions. With the ski resort right in our backyard, we had immediate access to a network of mountain biking trails – most too difficult for me – so I let Pat test them out first and we opted for more novice trails. They turned out to be quite fun with a few challenging spots. After a good ride, we were back at the house in minutes ready to cook our long-awaited meal: fresh ground elk. It turned out to be quite a success. We sautéed some portabella mushrooms and fresh basil, added the elk and wrapped the meat mix, tomatoes and feta cheese in a tortilla. Quite delicious! Actually, that elk meat lasted us for 3 other meals!

Pat on the Hoody's trail.

Caro motivated by the scenery.

Our elk meat, with mushroom and basil nearby.

 

We had also hoped to climb aboard the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad for a historic and scenic ride through the San Juan mountains, but it clouded over, so we went for a scenic hike instead through the Weminuche Wilderness with hopes to see the train passing along the Animas river. Clouds led to rain, so alas, we retreated without reaching the train tracks. This ended up being our last day/night in Durango. We were sad to leave our palatial abode, but were thoroughly rejuvenated after 4 days (along with our clothes, linens and Jeep), and decided to continue on. Thank you so much Mike and Kittybelle for sharing your home with us – it was such a treat to stay in an impeccable house in such a beautiful spot!

Trekking through the aspen forest.

With all the weight back in the Jeep, we continued our off-road adventure through the San Juans and this time followed the Ophir pass. A less technical but nevertheless strenuous drive starting just north of Silverton going west to the small town of Ophir. From there we could continue on north to Telluride. This was the second most direct route to Telluride, though significantly shorter. We were greeted with clear skies and even more beautiful sights of the mountains. We also wizened up and left the house in the early morning, anticipating both afternoon thunderstorms and Saturday traffic. We were alone for most of the drive up the mountain and stopped frequently to take pictures of avalanche paths, the narrowing road and the beautiful skyline. We barely missed the mid-morning traffic on the way down as a caravan of 12 hummers passed us on the other side. Yes, twelve! Oh and also a few dirt bikes.

Silverton in the morning sun.

Avalanche slide path - so big it goes up the other side of the mountain.

Evidence of rockfall on both sides!

Other trucks braving the treacherous pass.

Breathtaking views!

Ten more to follow!

One of the water crossings coming down the pass.

We arrived in Telluride late morning, just in time to see the brave contestants in the Imogene Pass Run make it through the finish line. Every year, for the last 30+ years, runners take mark in Ouray and begin the 18-mile journey up and over the mountains to Telluride. So while Pat and I had difficulty driving up the Imogene Pass, low and behold athletes tackle it on foot! Quite the herculean effort that requires the utmost acclimatization. Having exerted far less effort, we hit a nearby saloon and downed a sumptuous eggs benedict breakfast!

The Imogene Pass Run finishes in Telluride.

After walking and exploring this delightful town, we set up our tent in a campground situated right in town, which gave us the luxury of leaving the Jeep and tent, since everything was accessible by foot or bike. We met some great guys and excellent riders – Todd and Ron – next to our camp site who offered sound advice on where to eat and ride and even showed us a few spots in person.

During the day Pat and I went for a bike ride to see the Bridal Veil Falls, a 365-foot waterfall at the end of the boxed canyon behind Telluride and past the still active Pandora Mine. We didn’t quite realize how steep it was going to be, but continued to ride the 2 miles of switchbacks uphill until we got to the base of the halls. There we dismounted and continued on foot until we reached the power plant at the top. It is actually the second oldest hydroelectric plant in the US, and still provides about 25% of Telluride’s electricity. Great views of Telluride from up there! We cruised on down quite effortlessly.

Taking a break on the way to Bridal Veil Falls.

The rest of the way on foot.

A little bit of Switzerland.

Caro gaining confidence on the trail.

That night we joined Todd and Ron on a ride up the free gondola to Allred’s restaurant situated at the top of the mountains, and with a clear view of the town in the valley and surrounding peaks. There they treated us to fantastic happy hour drinks (Bellini-tini, Dark & stormy, etc.). Thanks again guys! The Gondola is actually the only transportation system of its kind in the US. It connects the town of Telluride with Mountain Village (ski resort) and runs every day except for one or two odd months –for free – until midnight. An environmentally sound alternative to car traffic and pollution.

The next day Pat was itching to go on a more epic ride, so he, Todd and Ron went off on their own for some real mountain biking. I happily stayed behind and spent a few hours in the renowned “Baked in Telluride” bakery eating and reading. The food was delicious and inexpensive – one of our favorites so far! After their ride, we went out for one last meal in Telluride with our new friends and bid them farewell before we continued our journey south towards Mesa Verde!

Welcome to Taos!

We rolled into Taos late in the morning from our previous night in the nearby National Forest.  The city of Taos is nestled at the base of the mountains with wide open plains running off into the distance on one side and rugged mountains on the other.  Our first stop was at the visitor center where we loaded up on maps, local newspapers and brochures.   We’ve been pleasantly surprised with the quality of the visitor centers in most places we’ve been.  Usually there’s a friendly soul in there waiting to tell you all about the best campgrounds, restaurants, attractions, etc; almost always free wifi and clean bathrooms too.

 We toured downtown Taos during the day and thought about our itinerary over some delicious but pricey lunch.  Our main focus was Wheeler Peak; at 13,161ft, it’s the highest mountain in New Mexico.  Before heading closer to Wheeler and the Taos Ski Resort, which is 20 miles north of town, we toured the famous Taos Pueblo, one of the oldest and most intact Native American Pueblos still standing.  All of the architecture throughout New Mexico is heavily influenced by Pueblos, and rightfully so.  They are very well constructed for the climate, with thick mud and straw walls for insulation, and built low to the ground to withstand extreme weather.

Taos Pueblo Graveyard.

The Taos Pueblo.

The church at the Pueblo was recently renovated.

That night we checked into the Abominable Snowmansion, a real deal hostel, which is rare in the US.  It was a weird place full of hippies old and new, and a couple of odd balls.  But actually we had a nice time and enjoyed watching a movie in the lounge/communal kitchen.  The next morning we planned to get up early and climb Wheeler via the short but very steep Williams Lake Trail.  Because the Snowmansion didn’t have a decent parking lot to camp in, we had stepped up to a cabin that night.  Well, I guess it was just too comfy in there because we ended up sleeping in and didn’t get to the trailhead until 10am.  That turned out to be a crucial mistake.

We enjoyed the easy two mile climb up to the lake and were sort of dreading the steep ascent up to the peak, but at least the weather was beautiful for now.  Once we reached the lake, the trail climbed to the summit of Wheeler in 1.25 miles, but went up 2,100 vertical feet in that short distance.  Let me assure you that’s extremely steep!  We were tackling it and making pretty good time, but were quite short of breath.  When we were about 250 vertical feet from the summit ridge, about a 15 minute hike max, the weather changed suddenly and started to sleet.  There were dark clouds all around and distant thunder.  We were adding layers until there were no more layers to add and trying to decide to keep going or turn tail and head down.  Just as we thought it looked a little better, a cloud to ground lightning bolt struck one of the peaks across from us.  We immediately descended; it’s unwise to be up high above tree line during an electrical storm, let alone the highest point for hundreds of miles around!

We made it to Williams Lake.

Views around the cirque.

Up and up the steep trail.

Almost to the summit ridge.

Wet marmot, good marmot…

Safely back down at the Taos Ski resort.

So we hiked back to the car mentally justifying our big effort but ultimate defeat by calling it an ‘acclimatization hike.’  We made plans for a second assault on Wheeler after a rest day.

That night we decided to pass on the Snowmansion and checked into the Taos RV park, which turned out to be a very comfy spot right near town.  We even treated ourselves to a movie, and saw Quentin Tarantino’s Inglorious Basterds.  Totally gruesome and uncouth but entertaining! 

On our rest day we went for an 84 mile scenic drive around the Taos area called the “Enchanted Circle.”  We passed through the towns of Angel Fire, Red River and Questa.  It was a leisurely drive through some beautiful mountains and valleys ending where it began, back in Taos.  Through our great friend Tim Hogan, we were connected with Judy Hofer, his Mom’s cousin.  Judy and her son Marcus welcomed us like family and gave us the run of the house for the night.  Judy cooked us a hearty homemade pesto pasta with chicken and fresh salad for dinner.  Marcus and his buddy actually grilled the chicken, pretty impressive for thirteen year olds!  I’m barely grilling chicken now at 28!  Stuffed full of great food, we hit the sack early after hanging out by the bonfire for a little while with the Hofer’s.  That pesto is actually still with us; Judy gave us a big jar that we’ve been enjoying for a while now!  Thanks again Judy!

Enchanted indeed.

It was a beautiful drive.

Almost full circle.

Some pretty country.

We remembered to get a photo with our fantastic host this time! Russell, her lab, made an appearence too.

Judy’s neighborhood was extremely photogenic. Taos is in the background.

The next morning we woke up before dawn to a light drizzle. It wasn’t the weather we wanted to make our second attempt at Wheeler Peak.  But determined to have a go, we packed up quickly and were off to zee mountains again.  Hoping the rain would clear up we drove back to the Williams lake trailhead, but by that time the drizzle had turned into a full-on monsoon.   Very discouraged, we drove the two miles back to the Taos Ski Valley base area and found an open café with wifi.  The Williams Lake trail is super steep and would be downright dangerous when slick.  We downed a spectacular breakfast burrito and danish at the café and checked the weather online.  From the weather radar it appeared that the storm was passing, and it looked clear after that.  As soon as the rain stopped we hiked up the alternate (actually primary) route to Wheeler Peak, the Bull of the Mountain trail.  This is a 7.5 mile one way around the backside of a couple mountains that approaches Wheeler from the opposite direction of Williams Lake.  We would have to hike for a few miles above tree line very exposed along the ridge, which we were uneasy about as there were no bailouts if the weather suddenly changed again.

Bull of the Mountain turned out to be a great hike; we climbed those 7.5 miles and 3,000 vertical feet in just under three hours.  We were highly motivated to get up and back before any thunder and lightning arrived.  We actually ran a half mile of the trail that was a slight descent at around 11,500ft, acclimatized indeed! 

Caro's charging up Bull of the Mountain!

Weather was iffy the whole hike, but got sunny at the summit.

A view off the backside of Wheeler Peak, looking towards Horseshoe lake.

Miles along the ridge.

Exposure!

We were so happy to finally summit on the second try.

After our successful summit we hiked down the Williams Lake trail to cut a few miles off the return hike and to avoid being high on the ridge when the afternoon storms rolled through.  We got soaked on the hike back to the Jeep but warmed up at a restaurant in the base area of the ski resort and enjoyed a post-hike feast.  From there we stopped back at Judy’s house to clean up and said our goodbyes, then headed northwest towards Colorado.  Before sunset we stopped at the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, which is well hidden until you actually drive over it, and then you realize you’re 600 feet off the ground.

Rio Grande gorge.

Caro's not a huge fan of high bridges.

Looking south into the gorge from the bridge.

The bridge and mountains near Taos in the distance.

Awesome sunset from the bridge.

We spent our last New Mexico night at another free National Forest spot high in the mountains.  The next morning we drove through charming Chama NM and eventually crossed the border and pulled into Pagosa Springs, Colorado.  Judy recommended we visit the Springs Resort which has 18 naturally fed hot spring pools in which to soak our sore muscles.  It’s a fantastic resort; we spent 5 hours relaxing in all of the different hot spring tubs.  Each tub was slightly different and varied in temperature from 93 to the 112 degrees “Lobster Pot.”  There were waterfalls, showers, jets, bubbles, infinity pools; pretty much every variation of hot tub/pool you can imagine, and all built right on the side of the river.  We’re already making plans to return in the winter to enjoy the hot springs and the nearby ski resort Wolf Creek, which gets 450 inches of powder a year, the most in Colorado!

High vistas driving into Chama NM.

I spotted a Cooper's hawk.

The Springs Resort in Pagosa Springs CO.

For our first night in Colorado we asked one of the folks at the Spring Resort where to camp in the nearby National Forest.  We got a great recommendation to go to the West Fork campground which was high up close to a mountain pass.  We’re loving Colorado, next stop Durango!

Our first stop in Colorado.

We were right on the West Fork of the San Juan river.

West Fork campground in the San Juan National Forest.

After a request from Caroline's uncle François, we've uploaded a short video on the About Page which shows us opening and setting up the roof top tent. Enjoy!

Sunset over New Mexico.

On our way to Santa Fe, we drove through Albuquerque, where we planned on stopping just for lunch, since the guide book was unconvincing in its description of the many strip malls. However, we spotted the American International Rattlesnake Museum – one of the only places that boasts a live rattlesnake buffet – all you can see at one time.  It was quite frightening and thrilling at the same time.  They were all locked up in cages, but both Pat and I were tense, and I think at one time we both jumped (my skirt had rubbed against his leg).  A few were rattling, but most were calm.  Contradictory to how it might look, the 6-foot rattlesnake below was actually yawning, not attempting to attack us through the glass.  It was scary nonetheless.

Warning – for those of you with a snake phobia, I suggest you skip over these pictures. 

A ferocious rattlesnake - or just yawning.

The albino rattlesnake looked grumpy.

The horned rattlesnake was our favorite, so well camouflaged!

We decided to take a more scenic road to Sante Fe (we always choose the scenic route) and hopped off Interstate 25 to make our away along the Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway,  a drive through the mining towns of Golden, Madrid and Cerillos, where a community of artists have set up shop to display their handiwork.  The name originated from the blue-green turquoise that was first mined by the early Pueblo people (900 A.D). We made a quick stop in Madrid (with an American emphasis on “Ma” not “drid” – to my surprise being so close to a Spanish speaking country). We have to admit that we were mostly lured by the National Guard helicopters circling the town.  We asked a few locals if there were criminals on the loose.  The answer: a yearly ritual searching for plants – aka marijuana.  Interesting use of resources we thought. 

On the scenic road to Santa Fe.

After browsing through the eccentric artwork, we continued north towards our destination.  Now, New Mexico is definitely one of the most beautiful states we have seen so far.  However, the state is not known for safe driving.  I believe it has the highest DWIs in the country.  Thankfully we didn’t experience that firsthand, but we did narrowly escape a crash when a moronic older woman driving a minivan in the opposite direction attempted to make a left turn right in front of us.  Pat was cruising at about 45 MPH (the speed limit) and had to lock up the brakes, then expertly swerved to avoid hitting her head on.  It definitely shook us up – at this point in time, most of our livelihood is wrapped up in the Jeep. 

We finally made it to Santa Fe in one piece and were greeted by Laura, and her two dogs Patty and Tessa, who generously opened her doors for us while we took our time exploring the city.  Laura, one of Pat’s dad’s friends who used to live in the US Virgin Islands, cooked us a wonderful pasta dinner and shared interesting stories about her time traveling in Thailand and India.  We fell asleep that night well-fed and in extreme comfort – thank you Laura! 

Laura's home was warm and welcoming.

Laura's comfy compound.

Tessa and Patty were very excitable.

The next day we caught up on a few chores and headed downtown to roam around.  Santa Fe is a beautiful, low-key city—named the most creative city by the UN in 2005—that reflects both a Native American Pueblo and Spanish ancestry.  With a pervasive adobe-style architecture (mandated by the city), all the buildings are very unassuming and blend in so well against the Sangre de Cristo mountains.  Along a section of the main plaza, Native Americans sell their handmade jewelry of silver and turquoise.  You walk a few steps further and you’re bound to run into an art museum.  Pat had some freelance website work to complete, so I wandered around and went to see the Loretta Chapel with its famous spiral staircase.  Legend has it that a mystery carpenter came through the city and built the “Miraculous Staircase”, a spiral staircase made out of wood with two 360 turns and no visible support.  We explored the city a bit more and retired to Laura’s house to relax.  Inspired by the previous night’s conversation, we went to an Indian restaurant for our final dinner with Laura.  She was a gracious host, and made us feel right at home in Santa Fe.

Overlooking Santa Fe.

Santa Fe Plaza.

Adobe architecture near the plaza.

Miraculous staircase.

We woke up semi-early the next day and headed for the trails to do a bit of mountain biking.  I quickly realized that the level of difficulty out West is a bit higher (or maybe the trail descriptions simply underestimate), since I had to walk next to my bike most of the time; for example, during a 1-mile straight uphill singletrack section with a pretty steep drop off.  Fortunately there were a few sections that leveled off and I practiced going over rocks and logs.  Of course it wasn’t a struggle for Pat and he acted as a great mentor during the tough spots.  Though we were probably both affected by the altitude—Santa Fe sits at 7,500 feet.  After a grueling workout, we treated ourselves to delicious green chile enchiladas at a local restaurant The Shed, and got a few stares from the patrons in our biking attire. Oh well.

On the trail in the Santa Fe National Forest.

Our bikes - happy to be on dirt again.

We showered, packed up the car and hit the road again to explore another artsy city tucked away in the Carson National Forest – Taos.  We took the “high road” to Taos and got gorgeous views of sandstone cliffs and pine forests.  Before getting to Taos, we found a remote campsite in the National Forest – for free – and filtered our own water from the nearby stream for the first time on the trip.

On the "high road" to Taos.

Sandstone rock formations on the "high road."

On the road in southern New Mexico.

We left Alpine TX and the comfy Lost Alaskan RV park for the second time and headed west towards Marfa yet again.  While filling up at a gas station in Alpine, two US Border Patrol trucks pulled in to fill up next to us.  Their suped up Ford F-350 off- road machines looked so cool next to the Jeep, I asked one of the guys if it was OK for me to take a picture.  No, it was not, good thing I asked!  One of the friendlier agents chatted me up after he noticed our Maryland tags.  Agent Dave told us that the “best pizza place west of the Mississippi” was in Marfa and that we had to check it out.  Since it was an official recommendation by the US Border Patrol, we headed straight for the Pizza Foundation, even though we had just eaten lunch.  Dave was right on, the pizza was incredibly good!

Stuffed full of food and fuel, we pressed on from Marfa due North towards our last stop in the lone star state, Guadalupe Mountains National Park.   We pulled into the campground around 4pm but it was windy and rainy so we just chilled in the Jeep for a while until things cleared up.  This was the first time rain has delayed our plans, not bad!  Once the storms passed we set up the tent, had a snack, and hit a nearby trail called Devil’s Hall.  It was a four and half mile out and back that lead up a washed out creek bed (called an Arroyo) and into a tight passage way between two cliffs, very cool.

Hiking up the Devil's Hall trail in Guadalupe Mtns National Park.

We had the beautiful campground all to ourselves.

We talked about getting up really early the next morning to climb up Guadalupe Peak, the highest mountain in Texas, but we slept in yet again… So starting up the 8.5 mile, 3000 vertical foot climb at 10am was very hot, but it turned out to be just fine.  We had the whole mountain to ourselves, not a surprise since it was a Tuesday morning.   The trail switched back up and up forever, then crossed a ridge and completely changed terrain.  On one side it was hot and dry low scrub and around the other side of the ridge was a lush pine forest.  We spent an hour on the summit enjoying the 360 degree view, and had some lunch.  Heading down was quick and easy – we took a few photos along the way.

We're getting better at the self timer photos, but this one still has a little grass in the way.

On top of Texas!

The trail up Guadalupe peak was full of switchbacks, gaining 3000 vertical feet in just over four miles.

Great views from the highest mountain in Texas.

That afternoon we packed up and said goodbye to Texas.  New Mexico was next and we got right into it.  Literally, we walked down 750ft into the depths of the Carlsbad Caverns National Park.  The park was beautiful, both above ground and below.  The evening before we toured the caverns we went to see the famous bat flight at the mouth of the cave.  It was fantastic; about 400,000 Mexican free tailed bats all depart en masse at sunset.  The night we were there was particularly magical because there were dual rainbows off in the distance – it made for a stunning sight.  Sorry, no cameras allowed at the bat flight. Apparently electronic noise messes up the bat’s echo location.

The next morning we walked down into the caves and were so happy just to be in the cool air.  The caverns stay around 56 degrees all year round, although there is a distinct guano smell at first that one must get over.  Once you descend the mile long trail down into the “big room” there’s a mile and a half loop past massive stalactites and ‘mites that’s really impressive.  Luckily there’s an elevator waiting to take you back to the surface when you’re all caved out.  

Inside the 'Big Room' at Carlsbad Caverns National Park.

Cave photo 2

We left the caverns and drove on towards the town of Carlsbad where we checked out the Living Desert state park and zoo.  It was very cool to see all of the animals that we hear of and see warning signs for, but never actually get to see in the wild.  The zoo houses all injured animals that have been rescued and probably wouldn’t make it on their own.

Mountain Lion/Cougar

After Carlsbad we drove high up into the mountains to a small resort town aptly named Cloudcroft.  We talked to a nice guy at the local outdoor store who gave us a great map of the area and pointed out some free campsites in the surrounding Lincoln National Forest.  We were quite pleased to find a perfect spot not far from town but really secluded.  That night we were up at about 9000ft, so the temperature dropped to 42!  It was quite a shock, but we bundled up and slept well.

An awesome (free) campsite in the Lincoln National Forest.

Caro cooking up some dinner in the camp kitchen.

  The next day we descended from Cloudcroft after a short morning hike on the scenic Osha trail.  Alamogordo was our next stop and is a medium sized town that’s right on the edge of the White Sands Missile Range, National Monument, and Holloman Airforce base.  Holloman AFB is famous for secretly housing the F-117 stealth fighter for years before the public even knew it existed. Who knows what they’ve got there now.  I was really hoping to see some cool planes zipping around but only saw a few F-16’s and two A-10’s – nothing fancy.

I should mention that on our way to Alamogordo we swung through Roswell.  Of course Roswell is well known for the alleged alien landing in 1947. We checked out the International UFO museum – that’s 45 minutes and 10 bucks we wish we could get back…  We got to Alamo early enough to relax for a while then headed into the White Sands National Monument to catch the stunning sunset over the pure white dunes.  Little did we know this small park would be one of the highlights of the trip so far.  Sunset there is amazing – here’s a few of the better shots for you to enjoy.  The last two are sized at 1280×960, perfect for your Windows desktop background.

Sunset at White Sands National Monument.

Pat at White Sands.

The sunset was stunning...

Sunset over White Sands National Monument.

 The next morning we finally did get up before sunrise, and drove straight back to the dunes at White Sands for an awesome early morning hike.  There’s a 4.6 mile loop called the Alkali flat trail that takes you through the North West edge of the park.  There were great views and a little bit of route finding to do, since the dunes are constantly shifting and burying the trail markers.  We had a great walk and then made some breakfast when we got back to the car. 

Team Frederick.

The Alkali flat hike around White Sands.

The hike went out over the dunes towards the White Sands Auxillary Space Shuttle landing site and the White Sands Missile Range.

From White Sands we drove towards a funky town called Truth or Consequences.  Both of us were really looking forward to another hot springs resort that was gushed about in the guidebook and offered camping.  Well, we should have called, because once we showed up there was no camping allowed and the hot springs weren’t all that good either.  Sort of bummed we drove around looking for a good place to spend the night.  We got really lucky and stumbled upon a cool campsite at Elephant Butte Lake & State Park.  Elephant Butte is an enormous manmade lake created by a dam on the Rio Grande River.  The park is basically a free-for-all of power sports; there were trucks driving all over the beaches and dunes and every form of water sport imaginable on the lake.  We found a quiet spot to setup on a bluff overlooking the water and settled in for a great night. 

We had stumbled upon an organic food store earlier in the day while going through Las Cruces, New Mexico’s second biggest city.  So that night at Elephant Butte I grilled four lamb loin chops with this simple garlic, paprika, and salt rub in a little extra virgin olive oil. It was divine!  To go with the lamb, Caroline whipped up a salad of mixed greens and herbs, goat cheese, tomatoes and dried cranberries with a balsamic vinaigrette dressing.  We washed it all down with an Argentine Malbec.  It was the best dinner we’ve ever cooked, home or camping!

Elephant Butte Lake & State Park.

Chef Pat cooked up some delicious Lamb chops.

Caro whips up a tasty salad with mixed greens, goat cheese, cranberries, and tomatoes. It was our best cooking yet!

From the ‘Butte we packed up and went for a drive along the beach through the sand before heading towards Socorro NM and the very cool Very Large Array Radio Observatory.  If you’ve seen the movie Contact (one of Caro’s favorite movies), you know what we’re talking about.  The VLA is a Y shaped array of 21 huge dishes that can be moved on train tracks up to 13 miles from the center.  That’s 13 miles in three directions – check out the overlay of the VLA on the Washington DC map to get a sense of the scale.  Its mission is to search outer space for distant radio waves.  It’s out in the middle of nowhere on a 7000ft high plateau that’s surrounded (shielded) by mountains all around so there’s no interference.  We took a beautiful scenic byway to get there that was dirt and rough for about 40 miles. It turned out to be a stunning drive through some beautiful country.  And it was the first time I can ever remember being in four wheel drive and having the cruise control on at the same time. 

On the road to the VLA.

36 miles off road, nice!

This gives you an idea of the scale of the VLA.

Looking up for radio signals from deep space and little green men.

Someone thought it would be a good idea to introduce the African Oryx (antelope) to New Mexico. No predators = population explosion. But they do look cool!

One last photo of the scenic drive to the VLA.

From the VLA we cruised on up Interstate 25 stopping for the night at a nice little campground that was sadly right next to the highway and some train tracks. Good thing we keep ear plugs in the tent! 

Next stop: Santa Fe.